Wednesday, July 8, 2009


I was wonderfully reminded last Thursday just how small our world is. While returning from an informative afternoon activity through my language school learning about Nicaragua's abundance of natural medicinal plants, (they even have a book cataloguing the different species and their medical benefits that I had to buy) I ran into none other than our fellow CANista David on the side of the Pan-American! Had either of us had any idea of each other's stay in Estelí, our sudden meeting would have been less incredible, yet there we were, clearly not in Santa Cruz and absolutely ecstatic to have found each other in such a coincidental manner. We spent the afternoon at the serene and beautiful cafe la casita drinking juice, sharing bread and cheese, and discovering just how connected our lives are at this point in time. He was in Nicaragua travelling with a group of his childhood friends, and I happily agreed to join them for a weekend trip to the nature reserve Miraflor. While the sights and sounds of Estelí are certainly exciting, I was ready for a few days of serene beauty and farm life that characterizes the population within the reserve.

However, I was not prepared for the sensational beauty of the Nicaraguan countryside. To the north of Estelí lies a nearly untouched landscape; the only signs of human existence consisted of a few free roaming cows and the occasional campesino driveway. We passed a never-ending blend of evergreen and green, stunning and expansive plains broken by cookie-cutter hills and mountains, lush forests and fincas growing bananas, beans, corn, and various agricultural products. The bus, not surprisingly, was stuffed like a thanksgiving turkey, with passengers eventually forced to ride on the roof. We arrived in Miraflor and made the mildly short trek to our home-stay. And what a hike it was! Every hill and turn presented another spectacular sight. White horses dotted the hillsides, happy cows munched on an endless supply of greenery (California cows have nothing on these guys), and a lone pig snorted happily as we passed despite being hopelessly tangled to his fence-post. This truly is a farmers paradise, I thought to myself as the sunset wrapped it's final rays around us and we arrived at our home-stay.

The family was polite and very hospitable, providing endless smiles and the best food on the trip to date. Every ingredient was grown on their farm, save the eggs, which I discovered the next morning had made the short trip from a neighboring farm. That night David and I had the first of many beautiful conversations with Jose, who contains an endless array of knowledge about medicinal plants and organic farming. While talking about the importance of organic farming and the need to preserve the natural harmony and symbiotic roots of organic farming in the region and beyond, I was struck by the pure poetry of his words. This place truly is a land of poets; David and I were giddy with anticipation for the opportunity to learn more as we fell asleep to the sounds of the finca.

The next morning, following another delicious meal, we assisted Jose in the planting of young coffee shoots using organic fertilizer and compost (!). Every few minutes he would stop to point out this plant or that, listing the various medicinal properties they held. There were even plants that we recognized from back home, plants considered nothing more than a weed by most accounts. I was sad to leave after such a short visit, but quickly remembered that I have ten weeks of finca life to look forward to in the very near future. David and I parted ways yesterday, but our mere acquaintance has blossomed with just a few short days into an exciting and promising new friendship. I wish him the best on the rest of his travels, including his eventual arrival to the Yucatán for a magical CAN internship experience of his own.

I can't thank CAN enough for the wonderful opportunity I have been provided, for the friends I have already made and will continue to make over the next 10+ weeks. My life is changing before my very eyes, and I wake up everyday excited for what lies ahead in this beautiful country that feels more and more like home with every passing moment.

Abrazos, besos, y la pura vida,

Taylor

P.S. I recently recalled a song titled "Sandinista" off of one of my more listened to CD's Drums and Guns by the group Low. It felt like a more appropriate time then ever to look up the lyrics while here:

Where would you go if the gun fell in your hands?
Home to the kids or to sympathetic friends?
Oh sandinista, oh sandinista
Oh sandinista, take my side

Deep through the clouds hear them marching up slowly
Fresh with the blood of your father so holy
Oh sandinista, oh sandinista
Oh sandinista, take my side

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Hola de Nicaragua! Upon safe arrival in Managua, I made the fairly short drive north into Esteli, located in the nicaraguan highlands. The city, with more than 100,000 inhabitants, is loud, colorful, and bustling with activity. Because of it's rich revolutionary past, many of the people here are direct descendents of the sandanista's and speak openly of their political views. I am currently living only a block from my spanish school, with a wonderfully polite family (abuelita, padres, y dos ninos) and a medical student visiting from San Francisco.
Classes are draining, and I am discovering my love of the afternoon siesta. Each day, the other students and I are taken to a different place of cultural interest. On Monday, we visited the Casa de Cultura and learned about Nicaragua's rich artistic culture. Esteli, in particular, is known for it's vast amount of colorful murals, which grace the walls of many of the buildings here. Yesterday, we visited Las Mujeres, a group of women who use the town's trash to make organic compost and paper. They then use the paper to create beautiful arts and crafts for sale to both Nicaraguenses and tourists. Today we visited the local library, which is powered by a solar panel! Classes are taught there, and the children learn about the various forms of renewable energy that can be employed in the more rural areas of Nicaragua. I checked out a book of famous Nicaraguan poems, for there is a saying here that, loosely translated, says, “everyone in Nicaragua is a poet until they prove otherwise.” The poems are tragic, symbolic, sensual, political, social, and above all, beautiful. What a way to view the Spanish language!

I haven't managed to take many pictures, but since it was father's day at my host family's house this last Sunday, I couldn't help snapping a few photos of their adorable children, Katherine and Michael (named after the one and only Michael Jackson. I kid you not, they share birthdays.)

Too cute!

I can't wait to get out of the city and into the Nicaraguan countryside, but for now, there is an endless supply of this fabulous country right here in Esteli, and I can't wait to discover more of it.
I miss you all back in Santa Cruz and beyond.

Abrazos y Besos

Taylor

july first! ahhhh

quick update from laguna kana

moi is better,
i gave him drugs
and he drank medicinal tea
with boiled orange leaves, i believe
he is no longer convinced he has worms
just a bad tamale or taco

i have started filming down here and got two great interviews. then i realized i didnt bring the charger for the battery. my camera works plugged into the wall... but the battery doesnt charge. D'oh! maybe i can get it mailed down, or maybe itll be more of an indoor production... we shall see. anyways im stoked because francisco is interested in being interviewed and so are the students. they speak real nicely about interculturality and wanting to teach and learn from different people. they are very curious and very smart.

this is my final week with my team at laguna kana and its bitter sweet. i want to check out other teams and communities, at the same time i want to stick with my friends through the whole process. the diagnostico stuff is going real well. we met with the president, secretary and tresurer of the town yesterday and they showed us the campo maps of the ejido, basically laid out all the lagunas, all the agricultural zones and the reserve which people are allowed to hunt but not burn or cut down trees. the most interesting parts for me have been interviewing people and doing the census. these are also the hardest for me because of the spanish. but i have been understanding almost everything and the group decided that i would partner up with one of them so thats really helpful. we learn alot about the history of the community, many of the founder's children are now the elders of the community. it is interesting and sad the way the older generation is full of maya speakers who work the milpa, while the new generation doesnt speak maya and migrates to the tourist zones to work for cash.

part of the university's work here is to revalue that maya language and culture within the community so that it doesnt dissapear.

the hardest part for me is 'being part of the team' because of how much of an outsider i am. maybe if i came back next year stayed for a year and started one up the following summer i could really be on the level. they are convinced that i am here to observe, so i have to find new ways to participate and interexchange... which has been fun. i definately get a million questions about how do you say this in english what does this mean, especially band names and song titles! everyone is also very curious about hebrew. edwin, one of my teammates says what he looks forward to in future intercambios is people from the US who are also from other countries.

also,
its hot.

peace and love and interculturality

Friday, June 26, 2009

a glimps of mayaland




my room, hammock and mosquitero at jose maria morelos



camino de las iglesias




This first week at laguna kanab was very very very hot and educational. We are five students in one room. As you can imagine, hammocks everywhere! The diagnostico is a really cool process, we met the town delegate, the local doctor, principle of the elementary school and high school (colegio de bachierra) and talked to them. Another part is a census, going house to house, asking about economic activity, migration, religion, customs, access to sevices and government assistance programs. We have interviewed elders to learn about the history of the pueblo. Pretty much the only job is milpa, growing corn, beans, squash, jicama, chile habanero or as one milpero told us, ¨everything but mota!¨ Yes, i hope you all are well out there in the wide world.... here are some glimpses of mayaland, mayab, southeastern quintana roo mexico



ps heres moi and i in the local news

a glimps of mayaland II



party at antonio´s














our room and hammocks at laguna kanab






moi explaining who the fonz is






























cenote, camino de las iglesias, casas bajas, and of course PAVOS!














Thursday, June 18, 2009

Photos de Quintana Roo







Hola everyone,









Quintana Roo has been going good so far, the weather hasn´t been too hot. The beauty here is off the charts. The people are humble, the food is awesome, and environment is lush and green. Mayan communities have an interesting belief system. Legends and spirituality that are not believed in by most secular societies, are ingrained aspects of the Maya world view. My first night in Jose Maria Morelos, as we enjoyed Xia beverages and food stuffs, The conversation lead to the topic of Aluxes. Aluxes are spirits that protect gardens (or milpas) from intruder. They are mischevous spirits, said to whistle and throw rocks at people. Alux are created by a Mem or Uxmal (shaman). Individual Farmers will go to a Uxmal and ask for them to be ritually created. They are spiritual beings that are belived in by most members of the community, even those who consider themselves modern. The first night that I heard of the Aluxes I had trouble sleeping and could of swore that I heard the chirping of an Alux. AHHHH! Enjoy the photos and video...

Canista en Jose Maria Morelos

Hello all, Tom here in the computer lab at the
Universidad Intercultural Maya Quintana Roo
It has been quite a journey by bus, plane and tricicle-taxi to get here.

It is hot and rainy and very tranquilo.
I sleep in a hammock in a casa-de-baja in the backyard of my host family's house. I have a shower with nice cold water and a desk with all my books on it. I sleep next door to turkeys and they crawk (?) at all hours, starting a chain reaction all around town. My neighbors are constantly blasting TV or radio.
I have been meeting many people. Family, neighbors, friends, teachers, town elders and kids.
My host family is very kind, very pacient and generous. And very big.
I eat meals with them and its a rotating table of brothers and sisters coming and going.
Hilberto, my host brother, is a agroecology major.
When i first got in, he and Sharon took me around town.
He pointed out all the tree names and we ate lots of fruit.

Papaya, Mango, Coconut, Aguacate, and a million little fruits which are all delicious.
Its hard to remember all the new names, words in spanish and maya, fruits, trees, animals.
Everyone is ready to teach and learn, everyone is excited for the intercambio.

The other day we rode bikes around town, trading words in spanish english and maya.

We had a welcome dinner with Claudia and her husband Henry,
Moi, Francisco, Sussana, both teams of students and some other friends.
We ate tamales with jalapenos and salsa,
and drank chaya which is the local indiginous protein drink.
We sang songs in Spanish and Maya and English with the students.
The students love coldplay.
Edwin my teammate listens Blink 182 and european metal.
I met some other students that have a reggae band called Chan Santa Roots in Carrillo Puerto.
The students and professors presented us with a welcome to mayaland letter.
We hope that this will be the seed of many a intercambio to come.

I have just recently started trying to describe CAN and the goals of my study, little by little.

Beyond that, my time now is about creating the new relationships of trust and setting up for future interns to come in and collaborate on the projects the students are doing.
Earlier today Moi and I did a television interview for the local station about the intercambio.

There is a lot going on and its hard to put everything into writing
I love you all
perhaps you should come down here and party?